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Is black kow safe for indoor plants

Is black kow safe for indoor plants


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Is black kow safe for indoor plants?

Is black kow safe for indoor plants?

Is black kow safe for indoor plants?

Black kow, or more properly, sodium silicate, has long been the de facto standard for houseplant fertilizer. It comes in a can, and comes in three strengths: 3.5, 6, and 10-1-1. It’s often described in terms of specific gravity, with 3.5 being most common, but here’s a handy guide to what that means in terms of percentage of sodium silicate in a solution, and how to calculate the dilution factor.

3.5: 1 part black kow to 5 parts water

6: 1 part black kow to 2 parts water

10-1-1: 10 parts black kow to 1 part water

If you’ve used black kow for any significant amount of time, you’ve probably at some point wondered, “But what about the pH?”

In other words, is there too much sodium silicate, or too little?

This is a surprisingly complex question that has been the source of much speculation and debate on the internet. While in the past I’ve written about pH and kow, this post examines what it means to “have too much kow.”

Let’s break it down.

One of the side effects of using black kow is that it may lower your pH. When you apply the black kow to your plants, your pH will tend to increase. But remember, as your pH rises, you can adjust to it by lowering the alkalinity of your soil by feeding it calcium or bicarbonate of soda. If you use a very strong kow (10-1-1) to feed plants, or if you’re feeding your plants a low-acid soil, you will likely be at the end of your ropes. By the time your soil has enough calcium and bicarbonate of soda to adjust to a high pH, your plants may need a higher pH than what your soil is producing, and there’s not much you can do.

So what can you do if you’re stuck with a high pH soil?

The first thing you can do is add calcium, which will both increase your pH and increase the hardness of your soil. Here are some options:

If you’re using 1 teaspoon calcium carbonate per gallon of water, you’ll need about 20 pounds of it. There are many options for delivery, the problem with carbonates is that they’re hard to dissolve in water, and they’re a bit expensive in bulk. To keep the price down, many nurseries use a calcium-based fertilizer, which is more like a liquid fertilizer that includes the calcium and carbonates, but you still have to deliver the fertilizer to your plants.

If you have a well-developed irrigation system and it has not been adjusted to lower alkalinity, you can add some bicarbonate of soda to the well water that goes through the sprinkler. If the sprinkler is a drip, you can use a very strong (10-1-1) fertilizer instead.

Another thing you can do is start your plants indoors, and then transplant them outside after you know they’ve grown large enough to live outside. This is called the “pH-swing” approach and has been used by container gardeners for many years to avoid having to do much with acidic soils. You will still have to deal with the alkalinity when you transplant plants from pots into a garden, but it will take a lot less time. This is one of the most popular gardening books published, and the instructions given here are probably more complete than they ve ever been before.

The next chapter includes some good resources for finding information, and links for more information. This is a book that has been used for years and we’re glad it was published, and is still available.

]]>,Wed, 06 Aug 2015 17:07:22 GMThttp://www.groworganic.com/blog/the-best-growing-media-for-small-farmsWe ve all heard the expression about not having "a pot to piss in," but is it really true?

A few years ago, in the back of a farm magazine, I found a story about potting soils for small container vegetable gardens, and I laughed aloud. It gave me an idea, so I did some experimenting in my own garden. I started with four bags of potting mix from my garden store.

It wasn t very good. So, I dug up a pot of dirt from the edge of our vegetable garden, added a handful of peat moss, and mixed in an extra bag of potting mix.

It was pretty good.

I was surprised to see that just this week I found a copy of a book that talked about the topic, and some of the information in the article in the magazine was in the book.

This isn t a new idea, either. Back in the early 1980s, I used some of the same ideas. It was before I found organic gardening, but I experimented with what I had, and my garden was doing fine.

The bottom line is this. Don t have "a pot to piss in." You may think that you have a whole garden to plant and grow, but it really doesn t matter.U sal baie beter resultate kry met 'n goeie mengsel van grond, kompos, sand, vermikuliet en turfmos.

'N Goeie potmengsel kan oral in u tuin of binne gebruik word. Sit dit in 'n plastiese tas, of onder 'n teil, of meng dit selfs in 'n kruiwa.

Neem dus 'n ou potmengsel, of koop organiese grond as u 'n plaaslike tuinwinkel het, of 'n vriendelike buurman met 'n groot hoop kompos.

Meng dit in 'n kruiwa met 'n goeie graad sand, vermikuliet, turfmos of enige ander grondversorger wat u in u tuinwinkel kan vind.

Die mengsel kan swaar wees as u begin, maar voeg sand by terwyl u meng, en versprei dit rondom u tuin om die grondgehalte te verbeter.

Dit is maklik om te doen en kan enige tyd gedurende die groeiseisoen gedoen word. Moenie potmengsel met potgrond gebruik nie, want dit het gewoonlik te veel grond daarin. U wil 'n mengsel hê wat vog sal behou.

U kan dalk nou die regte mengsel kry deur 'n bietjie potjie -grond wat u by die tuinwinkel kry, 'n paar kompos en 'n bietjie grond wat u by die plaaslike tuinwinkel koop, te meng.

Meng die vermikuliet- en turfmos in, en die potmengsel is gereed vir plant. Voeg hierdie mengsel direk by u nuwe plantarea en gebruik 'n hark om die mengsel rond te versprei.

As u dit doen, verbeter die grond in u tuin en voeg voedingstowwe en vog by.

Onthou om 'n nuwe meerjarige in u tuin te plant en in die herfs 'n ou bos of boom te sny. U wil nie in die lente enige dooie plantmateriaal in die grond agterlaat nie, want dit sal help om die grond uit te droog.

Meerjarige sorg

As u 'n nuwe meerjarige in die lente plant, moet u dit diep plant, sodat die hele plant sonlig kry. U wil nie 'n plant hê wat te min lig kry om 'n mooi, volblom te hê nie.

Dit maak dit moontlik om 'n wonderlike tuin te hê vir


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Kommentaar:

  1. Shakajas

    Hierdie baie goeie gedagte sal handig te pas kom.

  2. Durell

    I mean that you cheated.

  3. Aelfraed

    Dankie dankie

  4. Hubbard

    What a talented thought



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